The Brunch Review: Tommy’s Café

11Jan08

Tommy’s Café

1308 Ross Rd (near Lynn Valley Rd and Mountain Hwy, North Vancouver)

604-988-0174

http://www.tommycaters.com

Over the holidays, I ended up spending a lot of time in the suburbs, visiting my family and visiting friends who were visiting their family. After meeting up with some friends in North Vancouver, I decided to scope out the brunch offerings.

Tommy’s, in North Van’s Lynn Valley neighbourhood, came highly recommended. I was told that, despite the Comic Sans on its awning (*shudder*), it had amazing bennies and that it was the best breakfast on the North Shore. Better than the mighty Tomahawk Grill? Tastier than the legendary Savary Island Pie Company in West Van? It seemed very unlikely, but I went in with an open mind.

For reasons too complicated to elucidate here, we went for brunch—nay, breakfast—at 9am. Mercifully, Tommy’s very good coffee had my back. Near the front door were several self-serve urns of organic coffee, traded in the fair style and of various roasts. I chose the blackest coffee I could find and took a seat.

Tommy’s has a fairly cozy room (I counted just eight tables) and it filled up pretty quick. The menu had all the usual suspects, but I felt compelled to try one of the apparently killer bennies. I went for the ‘franciscan,’ which swapped out the traditional ham for guacamole, fresh tomatoes and bacon.

It was not the best benny I’ve ever had, and the eggs were a little cold, but it was still very, very tasty. The accompanying pan fries were top notch and perfectly crispy. Could there have been a few more of them? Sure. Did I manage to fill up nonetheless by stealing some of my friend’s delicious French toast? You bet.

It was a bit pricy, but the food was prepared with a level of care that one doesn’t see at one’s $3 breakfast joint. The service was prompt and friendly, although our server did break a $20 bill with three $5 bills twice in two minutes.

While Tommy’s can’t really compete with the Tomahawk’s, er, “charm,” or Savary Island’s divine baking, it held up better than I expected and I definitely recommend it. Once again I’m reminded, one can’t judge a breakfast place by its awning font.

Something to remember when considering a brunch at Tommy’s is its proximity to Lynn Headwaters Park and Lynn Canyon, a short bus ride or walk away. If it ever(!) stops(!) raining(!), following up your meal with a modest hike in the woods would make for a glorious Sunday. Plus, the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge is both free and cooler than the fancy schmancy Capilano Suspension Bridge. Paying to walk across a bridge is for suckers; you heard it here first.

Price (including coffee and tip): $14

Sundays, 8am-3pm

Lineup: None, but that was at 9am. It got busier.

Vegetarian options: Yes

Soy milk: Yes

Originally published in Tooth & Dagger.